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The street market (bazaar) is alive. No price tags exist. Haggling is a sport. You ask for a silk scarf; they quote you $50. You offer $5. You laugh. They look offended. You walk away. They yell, "Okay, okay, for you, sister price: $7." You have just participated in a 300-year-old trading ritual. www+desi+boudi+com

By mid-morning, the quiet is a distant memory. The auto-rickshaw (or "tuk-tuk") is the vehicle of choice. Here, the horn is not an act of aggression; it is a form of greeting, a warning, a "thank you," and a prayer, all in one peep peep . Haggling is a sport

, mentioning how he could never get the consistency right with the ingredients available in the UK. You laugh